While I’m out spending time with family, I thought it would be a great time to get to know more of our WAC team members. Here’s a recent conversation about food and family that WAC had with MX Specialist Stephen Williams. Not only does Stephen have a deep understanding of seafood from Alaska — he’s also incredibly knowledgeable about wine. Stephen is not a sommelier, but having worked as a beverage director in Philadelphia, we love getting tips from him and hearing more about his vast experience with wine. He’s especially passionate about natural wine. Stephen hails from Pottstown, PA outside of Philly, but he’s currently based in Tampa, FL.
To cap off this Q&A, Stephen shared some wine pairing suggestions for a few WAC recipes. Spoiler alert: Two of his suggestions for wild-caught fish are red wine pairings — something to keep in mind for Valentine’s Day, if you’re treating your nearest and dearest, or even yourself, to a little extra TLC.
Before we dive into seafood, where did you first develop a passion for natural wine?
I picked up a passion for natural wine while working in the food and beverage industry. When I first tasted it, it was like nothing I’d ever had before — complex, like a craft sour beer, but better. I liked the approachability of it, as opposed to the culture around old world wine which can seem very stuffy and exclusive.
Going to natural wine bars, people are super friendly. Most of the places that serve natural wine are hip, play dope music, and have an all around great vibe. I also like knowing there are no dyes, food coloring, or any other harmful byproducts going into it.
So what exactly is natural wine?
Natural wine is a return to the ancestral winemaking practices that were used for many years prior to commercialized wine making. Natural wines can be biodynamic, low-intervention, organic, or a combination of these.
Biodynamic wines are cultivated with respect to the ecosystem, moon phases, and natural cycles. Low-intervention wines are basically made by taking the grapes off of the stem, putting them into a vat, and letting the grapes do their thing, with very little sulfite added. Organic wines are made with organically grown grapes — without chemical pesticides or fertilizers.
What’s your go-to weeknight meal? And what is your ideal wine pairing for it?
Salmon, rice, and salad. Typically when I cook salmon, I like to do it pan-seared with olive oil, butter, salt & pepper, and a little cayenne. The crispness of the skin with a little salt and cayenne is great. I’d pair this with a Nebbiolo, a red Italian grape, because I like the contrast in flavors.
What’s a seafood dish that makes you think of your family?
A fish fry. Typically, my family isn’t cooking salmon or cod, but a regional white fish like catfish or whiting. There’s always cornmeal in the breading, and some cayenne pepper, too. Usually my uncles are cooking the fish outside, and if they’re seasoning it, they use adobo. But if it’s my aunties or my mom they use paprika.
You can smell it in the air — the hot grease along with the cornmeal being dropped in and browning up… when it’s finished, the fish is golden brown and placed on paper towels or newspaper to allow it to cool and soak up any extra oil.
So seafood is a big part of your culinary heritage?
Yes. Fresh seafood and fresh ingredients always play a role in all the meals prepared with the family. Growing up, my family always had a garden in the yard — and I'm talking a nice size, filled with herbs and veggies.
My grandparents are from Sumter, SC, a rural area about two hours from the coast. The culinary influences that are prevalent in that area are passed down through generations, and the culture is rich.
What wine would you pair with a fish fry?
I’d go with a chilled Gamay like Beaujolais. Even though a fish fry is typically made with white fish, it’s heavier and breaded. A Beaujolais pairs well with the crispiness of the fish and savoriness.
How about a pairing for white fish that isn’t fried?
If you’re serving white fish that isn’t breaded and fried, then you need a bright, acidic white wine like an Albariño or Chenin blanc.
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Match up Stephen’s wine pairing tips with a few WAC recipes that were featured in our new series What to Cook This Week:
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Try a chilled Beaujolais with a crispy, panko-breaded Rockfish Milanese. The soft tannins and slightly sweet flavor notes help to balance out the heaviness of the fish.
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The bright, citrusy flavors of Pacific Cod en Papillote with Cherry Tomatoes, Oregano, and Lemon are the perfect pairing for a Chenin blanc or Albariño. These white wines are more along the lines of what you might expect to pair with fish — and you can’t really go wrong with them.
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For an elevated classic like Pan-Fried Salmon and Slaw with Pickled Mustard Seeds, a Nebbiolo is a bold option. It’s a tannic red wine, but Stephen likes the contrast in flavor and texture.
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If mocktails are your current libation of choice, try pairing an afternoon snack of Cold Smoked Sockeye Salmon with a non-alcoholic negroni — the saltiness of the fish and bitter, floral notes of the mocktail are a truly appetizing combination.
Live Wild,
Monica
Pictured above: Stephen in the kitchen and in his element, enjoying a glass of red wine.
